
Social justice and fashion are directly intertwined, both in the statements that are made on the runway and the daily operational practices that fashion industries engage in. When one thinks of fashion, the most immediate thought is the clothes that are made and presented. However, these clothes are only the cover of the story. When we open the book, we are able to find the hidden layers and chapters that bring to light the social and environmental justice issues surrounding the manufacture, sale, and disposal of clothing within the fashion industry.
- Sustainability
- It is a well-known fact that the fashion industry is one of the top contributors to pollution on the planet. From the toxic chemicals that are used to dye textiles to the sheer amount of water and harmful pesticides that are used to produce cotton, the manufacturing processes of clothing have a long way to go before the industry can truly call itself sustainable. However, the investigation on the part of consumers must not stop there. The sheer amount of textile that enters the waste stream on the part of both manufacturers and consumers produces a larger obstacle of waste and pollution that fashion companies must overcome. Brands are slowly giving more attention to and attempting to incorporate sustainable practices within their facilities, and what we can do as consumers is to support the efforts of these brands. By allocating our spending to companies that are making strides towards being sustainable, we can increase the demand for sustainable clothing, and consequently encourage a rise in more fashion brands that are fully sustainable.
- Multiculturalism
- The fashion industry has run into many problems surrounding controversial representations of race, culture, and appropriation. Fashion has long struggled with walking the line between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation, approaching such topics in an awkward way that is outdated and insensitive. There is a clear distinction that must be made between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation refers to the selection of certain aspects of a culture for a trend while trivializing and disregarding the significance of its original purpose. That is, taking without giving credit. Cultural appreciation, on the other hand, occurs when a culture is honored and respected and explored in order to gain further knowledge and understanding. One way that consumers can help combat the short-sighted proliferation of culturally offensive fashion is by utilizing the platforms we have, most notably social media, to call out these brands and hold them accountable for their actions by bringing these incidents into the public awareness.
- Fast fashion
- The issues surrounding fast fashion are directly interwoven with the issues concerning sustainability in the fashion industry. Fast fashion is both an environmental and social justice crisis, as it is detrimental to the health of both the people and the planet. The short life cycle given to each piece of clothing that enters the consumer stream hides its devastating and lasting contributions to pollution of the planet. From the water-intensive cotton that is used to create the fabrics (not to mention the extensive pesticides that are used in the growth of these crops) to the release of untreated dyes into local water sources, to poor working conditions and exploitation of workers, to the exponential increase in the tons of textile waste in landfills, the risks and consequences associated with fast fashion are not at all worth the lowered economic costs of clothing.
- Ethical labor practices
- Ethical labor practices have always been in jeopardy within the fashion industry, especially with the increased prominence of the global economy and the international reach of fashion companies. The exploitation of workers, particularly those in second and third world countries, has been further exacerbated as a negative externality of the rise of fast fashion. The labor issues present within the fashion industry are extensive, from poor working conditions to overworked, underage, and underpaid employees who come from poverty-stricken economies. Additionally, consumers should pay attention to and hold accountable companies that rely on the use of forced and trafficked labor to engage in their manufacturing and textile disposal processes.
- Body image/body positivity
- Body image is defined in terms of who and what in society is responsible for influencing the way in which we think about our bodies. One of the main attributes is the media — particularly with the rise of the role that social media plays in our everyday lives, our bodies are now held to a certain standard of what is ideal. That is, the media influences the mentality with which we approach our body and how to care for it properly. There are different standards of beauty that are associated with different cultures, ages, genders, and histories, and all of this points to the necessity of understanding our bodies as a social construction. As such, the only true measure we have for evaluating our bodies is how healthy we are and how healthy the images of our bodies are. Our goal within the fashion industry should not be to reinforce the shallow notion of what an ideal, unreachable standard of a body is by attempting to overshadow and erase the beautiful uniqueness of each individual. Rather, we must move towards reshaping the industry into one that encourages all individuals to be accepting of themselves and make choices that will help them maintain healthy bodies and body images.
There are many issues of social justice within the fashion industry that must be discussed and brought to light. The above-discussed issues are meant to serve as a starting point for consumers to become more engaged in these processes of investigation towards companies. There is much more to be seen by looking beneath the surface of these massive mountains of clothing that compose our fashion industry — namely in terms of environmental and social justice.
The process for finding ethical clothing manufacturers can be challenging and time-consuming. With so many listings on the internet, how can you tell if you’re choosing the right one? Here are some tips to keep in mind to ensure that you’re working with manufacturers who follow ethical procedures.
Use Ethical Resources
Where to find the best clothing manufacturers?
The first part of your research involves using the right resources. As you find the right manufacturer for your fashion brand, you increase your chances if you use ethical online resources. Some online platforms provide all of the world’s best clothing manufacturers to you in one place.
If you’re not familiar with the terms that most manufacturers and retailers use, then it’s important to brush up on these terms before you begin your search. Sewport CEO, Boris Hodakel, suggests using Google as part of your research. You’ll read on a wide variety of topics such as ethical farming practices and organic certifications that can help you make the right decision.
Use Directory Website
Alibaba has been the leader for listing global clothing manufacturers. While this website is focused on Chinese manufacturing, they can still put your fashion brand in front of millions of suppliers and manufacturers. While directory websites have their limits, they have a vast amount of choices, most of which you have to filter.
You also need to be aware of the shady manufacturers. Some people just want your money and will say anything you want to hear, in order to get it. There are websites dedicated to exposing those scammers on Alibaba and other directory websites.
Conducting additional research to finding ethical clothing manufacturers will take a bit of learning curve, but it’ll help you get what you want.
Use an Agency
An agency can take care of your production for you. There are ethical and responsible clothing manufacturing agencies that know what you need and can do it fast. It’s important to find an agency that has the knowledge, skills, and service to provide you with the products you need on a consistent basis. This can also prevent you from working with unethical or shady businesses.
Agencies play an important role in the manufacturing process. Since they work with a steady flow of clients, they focus on doing what they do best. Working with agencies dramatically decreases the time it takes to find an ethical clothing manufacturer. They’ve already been heavily vetted for their ethics, pricing, production, and quality.
Visit Trade Shows
While searching for ethical clothing manufacturers online is one of the best ways to find one, you’ll never know how a fabric looks or feels. In this case, you’ll want to visit a trade show. Trade shows have dramatically changed over the years.
While sustainable fashion is the main focus of these events, eco-friendly fashion is in, and almost every trade show has featured ethical clothing manufacturers who are looking to work with designers and retailers. If you want to work with an ethical clothing manufacturer, know that you have plenty of options.
Some of the most popular trade shows include the Ethical Fashion Source Expo, Neonyt, and San Francisco Sustainable Fashion Week. There are plenty of opportunities to find out more about sustainable fashion and to meet some competing fashion brands in the industry. If you like using an online platform to find an ethical manufacturer, it’s still good to use fashion trade shows for networking opportunities.
Learn the Details
Since eco-friendly and ethically sourced fashion is on trend, there are manufacturers who are jumping on the bandwagon. Some of these clothing manufacturers have no idea what they’re doing. Just because a label read “eco-friendly” or “organic” means that it is. It may still not be safe enough for your customers and the environment.
You have to learn the details behind the fabric before making your decision. If the fabric you want is organic, look for the Global Organic Textile (GOTS) certification. If you want to make sure that farmers and textile workers were compensated fairly for their work, then you’ll have to look out for the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) certification.
Global or Local Certifications?
Speaking of certifications, most of the certifications you want to see should come from local governments. Most of the major manufacturers have global certifications unless they’re within the European Union. That shouldn’t discourage you from your search though. You should take the time to learn about the local requirements as well as the testing and inspection requirements.
Ask the manufacturers about their own policies and processes. How do they communicate with their employees? Do they actively walk the floors? Do they inspect the work as well as the facilities? Find out if this manufacturer actually follows ethical and environmentally responsible practices.
Supplier or Supply Chain?
At this point, you may have found a clothing manufacturer you want to work with. But you still have to closely monitor the supply chain. Even if the manufacturer you sign a contract with has all of its certifications and commits to sustainable practices, it does not mean that all of the members of their supply chain does the same. Sometimes there are multiple parties involved with the supply chain.
Find out if the clothing manufacturer works with a single supplier or a supply chain. It’s rare to find one who works with a single supplier. That one could be part of a bigger chain.
Team SFSFWI
Contributor Writer:
Tom Smith
Content Outreach Manager